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    August 25

    Back from trip--Day seven

    Day seven: Mt. Washburn
     
    Mt. Washburn is a highly recommended hiking trail.  It is between canyon village and tower falls.  The trail is about 6 miles roundtrip with a height gain about 1,300 feet so it is quite stressful.  When we began the trip, we actually saw the summit way up there and had no idea that is the ending point.  If we had known about that, three girls might give up the whole trip. I guess...
     
    It is the highest peak in yellowstone so that a permanent watching station is set up there with rangers living in, for forest burn observation and report.  I guess that is why it is called 'Washburn'.  When we got there, there is actually a fire report saying the time, location and reason for a big fire.  Most of them were lightning with occasional some human deeds.  Standing at the summit you can easily get a sense of feeling that the whole yellowstone is under your feet with canyon right down in front of you and hayden valley a little far away, plus even grand teton peaks, if weather allowes. 
     
    And the bonus point for Mt. Washburn is for those incredible creatures living in such a steep mountain--bighorn sheep.  We met a family on the way up and they came yellowstone every year.  They said they have never seen bigborn sheep otherwhere else except Mt. Washburn.  Their little daughter was so cute.  I forgot to take a picure of her.  Indeed, near summit a group of sheep shown up on the road and they ran so amazingly fast downhill that Sui didn't even have enough time to set up our camera to grab a near shot.  But we got a nice picture from far away. 
     
    It was a little pity that the weather was not that kind and a clear sight of whole park is unaccessible.  However, we saw a pretty rainfall.  The rain starts from the heavy cloud and when it falls down, it was just like a huge silk curtain from the cloud to the ground swinging arround.  Evan more beautiful was the wind, blowing slightly on the huge curtain, making it rippling.  Awesome!  But you'd better find a place to hide when the big curtain swinging on you.  If you are lucky and patient, take a picure of lightning just in front of you.  Zhang Sui failed coz she just could not stop talking to me and missed at least two great chances. 
     
    I left some notes on the guest book in the ranger station.  If you are there sometime, dig it up. hehe
     
    Going downhill is more or less easy job and we could have extra mind to enjoy the view and animals.  On our way down, we saw a marmot crossing the road and it hid itself in a small hole.  We standed there pretending to be rock for a while, and we saw the whole movement of this cute marmot from slightly looking arround outside the hole a little bit to a total exposure.   You can see from the picture how cute it is.  
     
    That is pretty much the whole day and I attached a picture from day six of coyote and the big moon. Enjoy! 
     
    August 16

    Back from trip--Day six

    Day six: Patrified tree, Mammoth hot spring, Black tail driving trail and bears
     
    The patrified tree is really just a tree, although we thought that it should be at least a bunch of trees.  There used to be three of them but the other two were cut off by souvenir--hunters.  What a pity!  Again, volcano eruption created the stone tree.  Dust under high pressure pushed silica into the tree cells before it dyed.  I guess it was buried underground for a long time and lifted up afterwards.
     
    Anyway, there was a far more interesting thing happened on our way to the patrified tree.  We saw two black bears!  It was near Mt. Washburn and they were a sow bear and a cub finding food on those rotten trees.  Many people were watching down and those two bears were slowly coming to us uphill from 50m to 10m away.  It was really close and the sow bear wanted to cross the road but got a little scared by the crowd, then they wander along the way away from us. I guess they were tring to get away from us.  The cub was really cute.
     
    Mammoth hot sping is the signature of yellowstone and is the name source for 'yellowstone'.  It is a little bit like the 'Jiu Zhai' terrace but less beautiful.  Actually, the rainbow color in gayser or hot spring is all due to the different thermphile microorganism.  The hottest near the outlet of hot water is blue because no life living there and when the water cools down a little at the circumference, different organism can survive and the temprature gradient with variant lives creates colorful terrace. 
     
    We spent almost all afternoon at Mammoth and then we went back.  On our way back, we saw three grizzly bears.  When we got there, actually I can see only two on the left side of road and the a sow bear looked anxious and hesitated circling arround.  And a cub was climbing down a tree together with its Mom.  I also heard a continuous sound coming from the other side of road.  We cannot see what was there coz the car in frond blocked our sight.  It sounds like a wounded sheep and we thought the sow bear was hunting.  But when we got closer to that sound, it was actually another little cub hanging in the tree and crying out for help.  Obviously, it got scared from so many cars and people and it wanted to going to its Mom.  Slowly, the sow bear gave up and walked outside our sight and the longly cub finally got down the tree and joined his twin bear.  we can tell how happy it was coz the moment he went to his family, the two little bears were playing arroung with each other.  They left after a while.
     
    When we got back to campsite, we went to the wolf site at the hayden valley.  Unfortunately, still no wolf came out and we hang arround for a while when the sun goes down.  But, we saw a coyote.  It was surprisingly brave.  After walking arround near the river, it directly came towards people waiting there for wolves and crossed the road.  It was alone and it is said that although wolf and coyote are closely related, the coyote usually lives alone while wolve always show up as a group or colony. 
     
    August 11

    Back from trip--Day five

    The fifth day: canyon, hayden valley, tower fall, lamar valley.

    People used to consider the canyon is created by the water flow erosion for million years. However, the eruption of Mt. St. Helens actually show us a new clue or explanation on how those canyons are formed within days also by the water.  After the eruption, huge amount of ashes and dust were blown out and they deposit day by day to a thick layer structure.  At the same time, due to the melting of snow on the mountain, a water drainage system was forming and they can easily wash away the loose ashes layer and create ditch further canyon.  There are very similar geological feature in St. Helens area as in yellowstone canyon.  These are all from website I checked when I got back. 

    Put aside the knowledge, the view is great. We drived along north rim trail and stopped at Grand view and inspiration point to take a close look at the upper fall and lower fall.  You can see from those picture how good it looks like but still a little pity it is that we didn't go to the famous Uncle Tom's trail and the whole south part of the canyon.  We planed to hike the south rim trail, right along the canyon cliff, and left it for coming days. But actually we don't have that much time as we imagined.  And the trail after Uncle Tom's trail was closed because of restoration or something.  Do check the local rangere before you really hike. 

    Before canyon, we actually spent almost all the morning at the hayden valley watching huge group of bison and 9 mystic wolves!  The hayden used to be blooded by yellow stone but later on, when the water fell back, the silt left grew grass feeding many herd like bison and dear.  As well, those herd attract predater like wolves.  It was quite easy to see bison coz they are that kind of animal like media expossure and they just like to walk ON the road, while other animals would like just walk CROSS.  Anyway, seeing the huge group bison was not the most exciting thing, but the people constantly standing there watching with telescopes drew our attention more.  We talked with a family and they said for the past week, they came here every morning and were able to see the regular wolves' showing up far away near yellowstone river in the valley.  But we just missed it.  Unfortunately, we have not seen them until the end of the trip.

    They are four or five adult wolves together with four peps and they usually will come out hunting at night and took a walk during the early morning or sunset.  Many people got really obsessed and even waited there for the whole night for watching them.  They have very professional equipment like sound detector or something to let them know in the dark night.  From then, every time when we drove through there at morning or sunset, always many people were there waiting.  It was fun when people gethered arround and talked with those witness experiences and waited.  We waited there morning the last two days but we got no luck.  That is the only animal we missed and I wanted to see them so bad that I even dreamed two times about a whole group of wolves.  I like waiting and watching them especially talking with people over there.  Quite a fun. 

    After leaving canyon, we saw black bear again!  The road is along a little creek in a valley and a black bear was climing up the other side of the creek.  I had to drive ahead to park my car coz there were already so many car sitting there.  But my friends jumped out and take some nice pictures.  When I got there, I can hardly see anything else except a black bear ass moving slowly away...

    I like drving heading north from canyon.  The road is climbing up and circling arround mountains. The view of the low land is awesome.  The next stop is the tower fall.  Nothing much coz the trail leading to the bottom of the fall was cut off.  But who can explain to me what is the reason for the grid like rock in the picture shown below.  Evan the park introduction material can not explain that.

    Then we drove to lamar valley with expectation to see wolves coz similar to hayden valley, there are many herd and predators.  But as soon as we got into, it started to rain heavily again and pouring for almost an hour.  We had to stop at the ranger station and wait the rain fading out and got nothing there in the end.  Since this, we learned a lesson which is if you want to see special animals in the park, consult ranger first and get the rough area those animals would show up. 

    However, we saw three grizzly bears when we drove back. :)  It was still raining then and we were all disappointed from not seeing wolves in lamar valley.  But when we were climbing up at the upper portion of grand loop road, we saw someone standing in the rain and watching something through telescope.  Curiously, I stopped and used my telescope searching arround and I saw a black or brown spot in my view.  At that time, I thought that is only a bison in the rain and when the spot started to move, Oh My God, it is a grizzly bear!  Moreover, there are two cubs playing arround the saw bear!  Through those guys' higher magnification telescope, we can see clearly three bears are searching for food in the rain but the two cubs looked much more hilarious.  They ran and play with each other in the rain and sometimes they evan stood up and just really really enjoyed the rain.  They are so so cute and we got all wet but still so excited!  This was the most exciting moment until then in this trip, though we saw more bears later on and within much closer distance. 

     

     
    August 08

    Back from trip--Day four

    We spent the forth day on the rest of those famous geysers plus the mud volcano.
    The drive way north to mud volcano is along yellowstone river and we saw someone in the river doing fly fishing.  That was absolutely fresh to me and it looks really fun. 
     
    There is a loop trail well maintained around the whole area and to be honest, it so stinks. The only difference from beautiful geyser and mud volcano seems those microorganism in the pool producing mud, through I don't even want to figure out how it works coz the smell just made me get out of there.  But luckly, we still found something interesting.  Satallite pictures between decade really present the thermal activity, as years ago, this area has been covered by forest which gradually has been gone due to the warmingup underground.  Ergo, those trees are dead from root and as a evidence, you can see some of those trees with bad or broken root lying down. 
     
    Along the trail, an old couple talked us when I went up the trail.  They have been there for five times and they seems quite familiar with geology.  They told me from no reason about Mt. St. Helens eruption in Washington near Seattle.  From their knowledge, there are many similar geological profile created by the St. Helens eruption as yellowstone, like canyan and thermal activity.  It just like a replicate of how god produce yellowstone and it gave us a chance to examine how volcano changes the world.  But the most amazing part is that only through two days eruption, another small yellowstone was produced. That was such a short time.  And until then, I started to enjoy talking with other visitors and sharing and learning from them.  It was another kind of trip fun. 
     
    The next stop is West thumb.  It is also a geyser basin just next to the yellow stone lake. You can see the steam along lake shor while driving from north.  Many geysers again and we have seen much more beautiful ones so that we just circled around and took some pictures then left. 
     
    What really upset us was the rain.  It started to pouring out just after we left West thumb and we had to stay in the car during most of the afternoon and only took a little glance at the grand prismatic spring, about one mile north to old faithful.  But only this quick glance made us decide to come back later when the rain stoped and we would not reget for this wise decision coz this guy is so big and so colorful.  You can even see from far away the rainbow color steam by the scattering from the spring.  Awesome view! By the way, it is better go there at sunset. 
     
    We went to west yellow stone for dinner and the only Chinese restaurant is well not recommended.  Just so so entree and the 15% tip included in the check.  I would rather go with Mcdonald. 
     
    Last but most exciting part of that day is BLACK BEAR!  It was getting dark and we were driving back from grocery store.  A bear shape stuff was crossing the road slowly and I am too excited to be sure until other guys in the car cried out.  Not many cars running on the road and only two vehicles had the chance stopping and took a careful look at this cute looking but creepy reputed big guy.  It is a pity that we didn't have enough time to take a picture.  But luckly, we saw many more in the following days.
     
     
    August 06

    Bcak from trip--Day three

    The third day mainly happened in old faithful thermal area.  We saw lots of geysers and hot springs. 
     
    The trip beginned at visitor center at old faithful.  They have all major geyser prediction reports but only old faithful geyser is pretty much predictable coz others would have easily hours error.  That is why it is called 'old faithful', with only ten minutes error during every 1 hour 36 mins period. 
     
    The gayser phenomenon is quite the same as boiling pot.  Subground water seeps into the slits between rocks which hold up the water like a container.  As the water is heated up, it starts to accumulate enougy but still is constrained due to the narrow crater near ground.  When the heating reaches the boiling temprature, vaparation generates huge amount of bubble and raises the water pressure dramatically pushing water out of crater with steam.  The eruption in old faithful could pop out 4,000 gallon water per minute.  Pretty cool.
     
    We closely observed a eruption and went up a hill along observation point trail, which provides a overview of whole thermal area.  We waited at the summit and enjoyed a second eruption.  It is a really nice picture taking spot! The next part of the trail around the geyser baisin was fun but really smelly. It was also hot since the trail was totally open without shaded, a truly good trip for tanned skin though, - actually, Sophia got really bad sunburn over her shoulders.
    After the geyser basin trail, we took another short trail called 'mystic fall', located about 2 miles north of old faithful. 1.5 miles uphill and 1 mile downhill provides a overlook of the whole old faithful geyser area and leads to waterfall, which actually origins from a highland.  When we entered the trail, one poster saying 'bear county' really scared Sui and she kept murmuring all the way we were hiking to make us noisy.  In this trail, we saw a group elks eating grass down in the valley and a family of five otters climbing downhill and jumping in the creek.  The otters were very cute.  The cliff near creek is a little steep and they had to circle around to find a suitable jumping in place.
     
    Back to mystic fall, it doesn't have much height gain but it is really mystic.  Just besides the fall, there is a small hot spring and the cold and warm water meet together and form a gradient.  You can simutaneously put your hand on a cool pool or hot one.  Very intereting! 
     
    A dramatic scene happened when we were back to old faithful.  It was near daisy geyser, we were tired and approaching daisy geyser seeing someone was riding bike, after long time longly walk without anyone else.  It was actually creepy when you were doing hiking all way along.  Just at the time when we thought we could take a break, suddenly three of us heard several wolves' sound.  It just sounded like the wolf crying out at night in movie.  We got really scared and speeded up to the geyser hoping there are more people around.  But when we just got the geyser, it erupted without any prediction and we just turned to be happy and excited just like we had never heard the wolves.  It was a really big emotion jump!
     
    Many interesting memory in this day's trip and in total the hiking distance was up to 9 miles.  It was really a big achievement for our girls.
     
     
    August 02

    Back from trip--Day Two

    Snake river goes north to sorth crosssing the whole Grand Teton and our trip will cover the upper one third of the river.  We meant to take a rafting in whitewater originally but considering three girls' week 'physical power', we last choose a comparatively smooth section.  Since we were heading to Yellowstone after this floating, we got up early and packed everything and drove to the start point.  Our guide Wille is a college student from Louisiana State University majoring Architecture.  He got lucky to work there in summer coz his friend's father owned the company. 

    The whole trip was smooth and relaxing.  We talked a lot about everything and the river reminded us the beautiful scenes in a movie 'A river run through it' casted by Brad Pitt, except in the movie, the sun is much gentle and the trees are much more.  Since that movie, I was amazed by the beautiful and romantic view and as well I am curious about the fly fishing: how they can catch fish by swinging the fish line.  Actually, fly fishing uses fly as a bait and unlike normal bait, the fly is so small and light that you have to swing it back and forward to throw it far away.  In the next two days, we saw many people doing fly fishing in Yellowstone river and we took a nice picture of it. 

    Get back to the trip. It was a kinda fun when you were floating in a river, exposed to the buring sun and having a far view of snow-covered grand teton peak.  Everything is quiet and only sounds are coming from our boat with laughing and talking.  It turned to be hot when the trip was gone through about one hour then we got to a little deeper section.  The spontaneous thing we can thing about is to jump into the river and have a swim.  So be it!  I jumped in without life jacket and the water is so so cool.  It was awesome that I even swim further away from the raft and let them to pick me up.  Zhang Sui again was a little afraid of water and just hanging around our boat holding the side rope, of course with life jacket.  When the river flew to a shallow place, she had to roll herself preventing hurt by hitting with bottom rock.  The gesture was so funny!

    Anothing interesting thing is that we saw bald eagle sitting in the tree.  I am a little confused about the name coz it is not bald but with white feathers all over the head.  Anyway, it was lifting its wings a little bit like enjoying sunshine as us. 

    Time goes fast.  This three hours trip ended soon.  Wille drove us back and we left to yellowstone. At the end of the floating, we went through a little rapid white water that we called 'sample of rafting'.  We were all excited by being threw up and down with the wave.  Wille told us that the southern part of snake rive in the park is all like this and actually we don't have to care too much about the 'physical strength' coz even some kids can paddle.  If I visit there again, I will definetly try whitewater rafting.

    When we got into yelloestone through south gate, it started to rain.  We didn't stop to enjoy the view outside but even this, our girls already begined to crying out for the beautiful forests and creaks passing by.  And right before we got our campsite at bridge bay, several dear showed up.  Interestingly, they behaviored like nobody else being around.  Other animals we saw later days also seemed not afraid of people or got used to people.  I didn't see any panic even when the bear was crossing road under so many peaple's eyes and cameras.

    After we settled down.  This day ended.  The even more fun trip was waiting for us.

    August 01

    Back from trip--Day one

     

    We four people spent last ten days in Grand Tetonn and Yellowstone national park.  It was a intereting, exciting, learning and fun trip. 

     

    Both of these two park were form by enoumous geological movements or changes.  The landscope in Grand Teton is actually quite simple but special, about 30,000 feet high peaks abruptly rising from a plain.  It is through three procedures to be done.  Long long time ago, this area was formed by sedimentary rocks and was flat land.  Then million yeas ago, the geological movement, in the form of earthquake, brought a rupture of this area and push up one half and lower down the another along socalled "Teton fault".  This movement formed the grand teton range with tens of thousand feet rising just next to the lower valley.  Again many many years later, through ice age, glacier growth and movement etched teton range creating canyon and valley then later melted and flew down to form those lakes such as 'Jackson lake' and 'Jenny lake' on the foot of mountain. 

     

    Those geological change created gradien in the landscope and waterfalls are one of those spectacular scenes.  In first day Grand Teton trip, we took a hiking trail around Jenny lake and went further inside the mountain to Hidden fall.  The water in Jenny lake is so clear that you can see those rocks at the botton of the shallow lakeshore and during hiking, some kids were diving from a rock next to lake which inspired me to follow.  It was an awesome swim and I was the only one of our four to enjoy this whole body cooling down.  Those girls just washed their feets in the lake.  During the hiking, the first time and also the only time we saw a moose far away down in a lower valley dricking water.  This is the first wildlife we encountered in our trip and it just made us cracy.  The huge horn told that was a bull moose and we took a nice shot at it. 

     

    Hidden fall is a nice one with maybe 100 feet high, but it is not the best one in this trip.  Before we got Hidden fall, two girls were tired out and they took a long break.  I myself climbed up to the inspiration point in the trail and had a wonderful overlook of Jenny lake and the plain.  No access closing to the fall, which humbled the fun to me.  Actually, following the flow to a lower part of this creek, there is another small cascade falls which could be closely approach.  The route is a little tough but it was much more fun. 

     

    After all, we took the boat crossing Jenny lake and back to our campsite.  That day, only about 2.8 mails hiking was done and two girld broke down.  But later, we had a much bigger challenge in yellowstone.  When we got back, Zhang Sui and I went to Jackson lake right next to our campground and took a swim.  She swims not so well and fortunately, we found a trunk of round wood and she can hold it floating in the lakeshore.  It was such a funny face when she was stepping in a little deeper shore and screaming out and holding the wood like the very last piece of clothing on her body. 

     

    The next day, we planed to take a floating trip in Snake river since we had experienced a little bit of the mountain.  The floating was taken place in upper stream of Snake river and the expectation is to grab the view of the lower plain and further view of Grand Teton.